![]() ![]() Get the single cylinder leak down test positions and see if the pistons and valves hold air. The PCV L is a huge potential vacuum leak. No "twist-lockability" with a good PCV valve means a new VC. The PCV valve itself "1/4 turns" into the valve cover and the plastic lugs involved can break. It cracks at the ends and splits on the underside. A plastic pipe goes from it, makes a 90* turn to cross behind the engine then takes another 90* turn to go to the intake. It sticks out of the BACK SIDE of the left (driver's) valve cover and goes right up against the firewall. ![]() Any deeper work on the right (passenger's side) side requires removal of the engine.Ģ005 and later had the revised chain tensioners so ekrampitzjr's opening statement above is off target.Įarlier version had a weak spring which allowed wear until the oil pressure increased upon startup. The replaced tensioner on the left (driver's head, yes?) makes me think they know something's wrong.Īccess to unscrew the right tensioner requires some disassembly. What is the best simple test for clogged cat? The secondary O2 does exactly follow the primary- not good- but I likely didn't run it long enough to get a P0420 code. So my question is are there any simple checks to make from outside to confirm the cams are in time? I'm thinking remove the valve covers and check the slot in the end of the cam is the only way.Īlso I'm kicking around the idea that the cat may be melted and clogged, since those old spark plugs would have had some severe misfiring. Engine coolant heats up to exactly 180 degrees, suggesting a 180 degree thermostat has been installed which is a hallmark of someone who doesn't know what they're doing. There aren't any codes related to misfiring or crank or cam sensors. The only OBD code is EGR flow because the DPFE sensor has melted and fallen apart, I plugged up the silicone lines and left it unplugged. I did take the cam sensor out and look in the hole to confirm the left cam is at least turning. I do see there is a new tensioner piston on the side of the left head, I didn't look for the right one. This loss of performance occurred suddenly either just before or related to that work (It's really hard to communicate with the owner). On a test drive the engine has absolutely no power, the truck can't go more than 5-10 mph on a slight uphill.įurther interrogation revealed that he went to another amateur mechanic who did something related to a water leak near the thermostat and something related to the timing chains and it hasn't run properly since. It does not make any rattling or other noises that others say are from the timing chains. Now it does at least start up and idle, though it has some misfiring and something is clearly not right. The old plugs were completely shot, they were base metal and worn down to about 0.100 gap. I said that was unlikely to solve the problem but since he'd already bought new plugs I did it anyway. He wanted me to change the spark plugs, as they were original. He brought it to me with a "misfire" - meaning it would barely run or move. A neighbor has a 2005 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 4.0 engine, 206k miles. ![]()
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